Sunday, 27 July 2014

Retul bike fit

After long considerations, I have finally decided to go for a retul bike fit. Have an appointment with probably the region best bike fitter in a few days time to have my bike fitted for me. Lets hope it goes well and I can gain instant speed and comfort.

Thursday, 10 July 2014

Shimano R191 road shoe for sale

Selling my old pair of shoe.  $70sgd.
Condition as seen in picture.
Cosmetic : 8/10
Functionality : 10/10
Size 44
Comes with superfeet insole! Stock insole included too.
Deal at punggol only
Whatsapp/sms to 96443942 

Monday, 7 July 2014

Hawk Racing first look

A new bb to replace my Chris King. Chris King is a solid bb but why did I change it?
According to Friction Facts, Chris King doesn't score that well. Its results are average. So according to the results, I bought the Hawk Racing. Its the best steel bearings bb.

How good can a steel bearings bb be compared to ceramic? You will be surprised! Among all the bb tested which includes some high end ceramic bb like F1 Ceramic and Ceramic Speed, the Hawk Racing is tested even lower friction than them. Infact, out of the so many bb tested, the only bb that is better than the hawk racing are Gold Race(Ceramic and almost as good as no seal), Enduro XD15(top range Ceramic and 2.5x the price) and lastly the C-Bear(Ceramic and also double the price). These are the only BB tested better than the Hawk Racing. So how much better are they? They are only better by 0.01 and 0.02watt. These are negligible compared to how the Hawk Racing is better than Ceramicspeed(by 0.13watt) and F1 Ceramic(by 0.27watt). For comparison, hawk racing is better than Sram Ceramic by 0.28watt and dura-ace 9000 by 1.13watt.

So how much better it is compared to my Chris King. The test didn't test out Chris King Steel but they test out the Chris King ceramic and Hawk Racing is 3x better than the CK in terms of lower friction. This is amazing and comparing the price, Chris King is more expensive too. Enough talk, check out the video below. Sorry for the lousy quality video after the compress... but u get the drift..


Sunday, 6 July 2014

Tour de France 2014

The time of the year is here again. Lots of new technology coming out again. Lots of interesting fights too.
As of today, Mark Cavendish is out of the race due to the crash yesterday. Guess with this, its down to Kittel to win all the big sprints and Sagan to grab the green again.
For the yellow, I am rooting for Contador to win. Not a big fan of him, but just that between Froome and Contador, I prefer Contador to win. I like Froome attitude but I dislike Team Sky. It will be a big fight this year though. Contador on form this year. If I could dream, I hope Tony Martin, Fabian Cancellara or Chris Horner would win! But this is impossible. They are just not the yellow contender this year. And also Quintana didn't join this year else I will root for him.
So lets see who will win!

Thursday, 12 June 2014

Missing in action

Been MIA for sometime again due to busy work schedule and looking after my little one. Missing lots of action and past few months have been clocking shitty mileage. I think the past few months mileage adds up also lesser than some of my cycling kakis weekly mileage. Thats how bad and pathetic...

However even though the tight schedule, I still manage to test and review 2 new purchase.

Oysmetric Rings

I have changed to a compact Sram Red cranks and sold away my standard Sram Force cranks with QXL.

So why did I change? I have no complains with the QXL but I have been hearing that Oysmetric gives a even better pedaling strokes. So this is the main reason I decided to switch.

At first look, the rings are flat like pancake. No shifting ramps and pins to aid in shifting. I thought to myself, its gonna be bad in shifting. However, after fixing it up and dialing it in, there is no much issue. Of cause, it doesn't shifts as good as the original Sram rings but it doesn't bother me much. It takes some time to get use to how to shift it right else the chain might slip when shifting from small to big and vice versa. I have learned that in order to shift well, you have to lessen the load in the pedal and best is to have ur pedals in the 3 and 9 o'clock position so that when u push down the pedals, the front derailleur cage will push it up onto the bigger chain ring or the chain will have a support to keep it from falling when shifting big to small chainring. It might be hard to understand how it shift from words. You just have to see it shift and you will understand. But it isn't a big issue to me, how many times do you shift the front derailleur in a ride? And even with round rings, I don't shift the front under load.

The other issue is the noise, every crank revolution, you will hear 2 slapping sound. This is due to the rings shape and when it goes from 3 oclock to 6 oclock position, the chain will go from the biggest diameter to the smallest diameter, when this happen, there will be a slapping sound of the chain. So its rather noisy but something you will get used to.

Now, lets get to the advantages. Swapping from QXL to Oysmetric, I can feel a slight difference in the pedaling. The ups and downs are more exaggerated than the QXL. It feels good and thats all matters. Whether it is better than QXL? I do not have a way to measure it. But it does feels better than the QXL. A friend of mine which is also on QXL tries my bikes and says it feels lighter than the QXL in terms of pedaling and this contributes to a higher cadence. This simply translates to a faster speed. I am still in the midst of testing it out more and having a more accurate testing. As my previous rides are on 167.5mm and my QXL is on 172.5mm. Hence I have just swapped the 167.5mm with a 172.5mm crankarms on my Oysmetric so that it will be a more accurate test. Stay tune for more reviews on QXL vs Oysmetric. Currently, my preference is towards the Oysmetric.

Hamax Smiley Child Seat















As a cyclist, I dream of bringing my little princess around on a bicycle. While surfing the net, this child seat caught my eyes and then it become reality. I installed it on my "DIABLO" and its a dream come true!

Installation is straight forward and easy. Installed it within 30mins. Its easy to remove and put back so I don't get stuck with a purely child seat bike. It has a built in suspension as the child seat are suspended in the air by the 2 rails. This is good as when going through bumps, it won't hurt the children spine. Its stable and doesn't really affects handling. I think its quite comfortable as all the rides I bring my princess to, she fell asleep after around 30mins. Its very secure too, I think there is no way she could ever open the seat belt her own.

The only improvement I would suggest is to have a bar infront of the seat so she could grab and also I can hang some toys on it. =)

GOOD PRODUCT overall!

Thursday, 13 March 2014

Back to the road

After lots of tinkering with Tri fit on my roadie, I have decided to change it back to the road configuration. As most of the time I am riding in a pack, don't have much time to ride in the aerobars. Makes more sense for me to ride a road configuration.

Wednesday, 8 January 2014

Diablo first ride

I will start it off with the bike set up. Its 99% stock bike with only the pedal changed to my speedplay pedals and adding bottle cage, saddle bag and a handphone mount on the stem.












It is a pleasant ride. 32mm tyres + chromoly 4130 frame and fork + 32 spokes front and back, its a tank! Heavy as a tank. At roughly 12.5kg with a filled bottle and accessories, its almost 3kg heavier than my Black Bird. BUT! The ride is sweet as hell. One guy who rode my bike even commented its even more comfortable than his Sworks. But that is for sure, 32mm tyres at 60psi front and 75psi rear is sweet! Also with components like this, its bomb proof.

So how fast did it go?
I will let Strava explains..
I have something to boast about. Fastest in the group during this 1.2km stretch. Quite amazing as it also beats my personal record on my Black Bird.












I also hit a max speed of 59.9km/h on a descent, actually if the elevation map is correct. It was after a downslope and was on a bit of a tiny ascent.













If I calculate using Sheldon Brown Calculator, I would have hit a cadence of between 180-190rpm during that sprint. O_O

I was following and drafting the fast pack until around 17km before I got dropped from the main pack and followed the other fast group till around 26km mark before I got totally dropped at coastal. Luckily manage to catch up to another guy infront and wheel sucked all the way to Changi Village. Would have managed to followed the group if I have a bigger ratio. Probably around 48/17. Its really tough riding with the 42/17 at the group speed of roughly 38km/h. It would have meant I need to maintain a constant of 120rpm for the whole ride. Its totally hamster!
















I am quite satisfy with the bike though. Its very responsive with the single speed drive. Although I wished it would  have a 48/17 ratio for better and easier ride on the flats and descend. Maybe I will upgrade it after a few months, for now I will train to be a hamster first.

Saturday, 4 January 2014

BombTrack Arise

I have been wanting to build a new bike for sometime but I have no idea what should I built.

I have always wanted a steel road bike. Just simply love the look with those thin tubings. I also wanted a road bike that could run thicker tyres or even knobbies which leads me to looking out for a cyclocross bike. But there isn't much of a choice within my budget. I also wanted a bike that has minimal maintenance yet able to ride it fast and slow at the same time. I dreamt of cycling without needing to think too much(a speed obsessed freak has its relax time too). I almost gotten what I want few years back, a Surly Pugsley. It matches what I wanted but theres a little too much maintenance for it. 

Then came someone who recommended me the BombTrack Oxbridge. Its a very nice bike. I almost fell for it. Then I decide to check the whole range of bike from BombTrack. Something caught my attention. 

The Arise - it totally fits what I wanted! Pretty lucky for a start for 2014.

I decided to name the bike, as usual as with my Black Bird and my Pui Zai(Pugsley). I decided to name it as DIABLO! Firstly, DIABLO stands for some acronyms I have thought of. Secondly, because its black! Dark as Devil! 

So what does DIABLO stands for? 
DIA for Do-it-all since its a cyclocross frame, it can handle the road with road tyres or offroad with cyclocross tyres.
B for Black as its fully black! 
L for lasting! Its steel, its bomb proof so its gonna be lasting.
O for ONE! One speed to own. nuff said.




Special Thanks to Fixie Haus SG for the great and fast service!

Tuesday, 31 December 2013

Good news for bike fit!

Woohoo, after spending close to one day in trying to tweak my position. I have concluded that I won't be needing an adjustable stem. I adjusted some angles here and there and gotten a pretty good position where all the angles matched the "theories".

Below are the results







































Got all the angles dialed in and result is a very aero postion as compare to my previous fit here.

Now, its time to do a field test on it!

Monday, 30 December 2013

Adjustable stem?

After some DIY bike fit, I think I would seriously need a adjustable stem to lower my front end. As of now, there are 2 angle that I am unable to reach upon with my set up. The one in green and the one in red.

The red one is still not so bad, targeting between 90 to 105 degree but recommended to be at the lower range(90-97 degree).

The green one is quite off though. Target is 90 degree. Currently, its at 76.7 degree.

To rectify this 2 issue. I will need to get my front end lower and further. Since I am already using -17degree stem and there is no more spacer to remove, the only way is to get a adjustable stem and use it to get my stem angle to around 45 degree instead of 73 degree.

With that, I will be able to achieve the a 90 degree upper arm angle(green) and a proper chest angle(red) of around 93-95 degree.

The rest of the angle are within range with a level saddle to prevent sliding forward.

So the big problem now is, I have got to break off from my full 3T contact point and get a Ritchey adjustable stem. Its the only better adjustable stem out there. Of cause there 3T have their Arxa stem but its just too short. I need a 120mm adjustable stem, 3T only comes with 100mm. Guess that is my only choice.

Stay tune to see if I am able to make it work...